Thursday, November 7, 2024

40b. Alla's Adventure in the Marquesas Islands

Nuku-Hiva of the Marquesas Islands was the final destination of this 40-day trip for me to reach the goal of visiting 301 of the Travelers Century Club list. There are a total of 15 islands in this French Polynesian archipelago. The Marquesas Islands group is one of the most remote in the world and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The flight from Papeete to Nuku-Hiva Island was about 3 1/2 hours. It was a difficult flight for me since my leg was more swollen due to the Rurutu trip yesterday and there was no way to keep it elevated.

I was taken into the quite modern and colorful Nuku-Hiva Airport by wheelchair - as was all my transportation to and from the planes after the unfortunate dog bite incident. In the long run it turned out to be very convenient. 

Again, I had no prior plans as to what I would be able to do here. With Google translate I asked around for a ride to town. Little did I know that "town," Taiohae, was 31 km and over an hour away. Was it possible to get to town and back before the return flight to Papeete? Finally a driver who was taking another lady to town said she would do a round trip for me. Along the way the driver and the other passenger chatted away. They did not know each other but spoke the same language and it was not French.

It is a steep winding road to the top of Mount Muake (864 meters) for the first half of the drive and a steep downhill winding road for the second half to Taioha. The scenery was spectacular and totally unexpected. The weather was clear and we made several stops along the way for me to take pictures. There were lush green landscapes and views to the ocean. Chickens along the road. Cows behind fences and horses grazing along the road. Even a young boy riding horseback along the road. I was amazed and almost dazed at what I saw. 

      



The passenger was dropped off at a small lodge and I walked down to the seashore. There was very little activity in the town. The driver stopped to get groceries and I explored ancient Tohua Temehea. A Tohua is a large plaza used for ceremonies and meetings. This is the ancestral home of Queen Vaekehu who was considered to be the last queen or chieftainess of the Taiohae. By marrying another chief she reunited the once divided tribe. The site contains many carved stones dating from the 11th to 14th centuries and are probably depictions of ancient Nuku Hiva deities. The Marquesas Islands were settled around 200 BC by Polynesians and have cultural and language links with other Polynesian peoples across the Pacific. I have seen figures similar to these on Easter Island (Rapa Nui), Jeju Island and other South Pacific islands.

On the drive back the weather had changed. It was cloudy and began raining. The driver became concerned due to the time. There is a half hour time change and I was never sure of the correct time. There was construction on the road and several times we had to wait for a least 10 minutes for the road to be cleared. At least there were cars behind us that were also going to the airport. When we finally arrived we realized the return flight was at least another hour away. I paid her the equivalent of about $30 for the amazing 4 hour adventure.

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